Nicaragua: Granada, Leon & volcano boarding

After San Juan Del Sur we took a myriad of chicken buses inland, at times running from one bus to another while both were still moving with a man yelling at as to “VAMOS! VAMOS! VAMOS!” (“come on” or “let’s go!”). For a very laid back continent the bus system is fraught with stress.

We arrived in Granada and set about finding somewhere to stay. We found a cheap hostel and went out to explore. Only there wasn’t a tonne to see. Well there probably was, but I’ve taken so many photos of doors on Spanish colonial buildings already on this trip, that I didn’t feel excited about seeing more.

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This area does old churches well

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We headed to the Garden Cafe for lunch and weren’t disappointed. It is set in an old colonial building around a lush garden.

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The place pretty much nailed ‘tranquilo’.

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This salad was delicious

That afternoon Niki and I set off to get massages ($USD12 for half an hour) at the Choco Spa. It was super awkward, not because my masseuse was blind but because I shook his hand when he reached out to take my slip of paper from the front desk to say I’d paid. So smooth.

The massage itself was underwhelming and the massage table quite uncomfortable. The cacao scented oil was nice though. Niki was equally unimpressed with her half hour.

Leon

The next day we squeezed onto a minibus to get to Leon. We got to the city and then went a little bit further to stay at a hostel on the beach.

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The beach was great for surfing, but not so great for swimming.

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Yum

We stayed one night and then ventured back into Leon city. Like Granada, Leon also loves a good church.

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Love a mustard church

This white cathedral was charming; all white at the front…

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And somewhat dilapidated at the side.

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We browsed some nearby souvenir stalls and bought some token gringo traveller woven bracelets. I wanted one of these super unimpressed looking Nicaraguan ladies:

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But she wouldn’t survive in my bag.

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Volcano boarding

On our second day in Leon we decided boarding down the side of a volcano was in order. So we were driven out to a very young (first appeared in 1850) active volcano called Cerro Negro. It took about 45 minutes to get to the top.

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Andrew, ever the volcano enthusiast, was very excited.

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An excited 80s gym instructor

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Where you begin your slide down the volcano

We donned our mining/convict suits and covered our noses and mouths.

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And then it started to set in that we were actually going to have to board down the rather steep side:

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Not sure this shows how steep it is

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As soon as I sat on my board I was instantly awash with nerves. It was super steep, the board was super uncontrollable and I was super scared. To say the least.

I don’t think I’ve ever been so scared in my life. I sunk my feet into the sides of the volcano and attempted to go as slowly as possible. Which wasn’t slow enough.

I filmed the whole thing on my GoPro (well, from halfway down as I was too scared to remember to switch it on at the top!) and it is painfully slow to watch.

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Me, hating life

Once at the bottom I wasn’t even relieved, I was shaky and teary and in utter disbelief that something I hadn’t given much thought to earlier had terrified me so much.

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Someone else coming down

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Never again. Honestly the best part of the experience was playing trivia for beer and cookies on the way home. Andrew won twice for science questions and I won twice for knowing these which movies these quotes belong to: “you were born a street rat, you will die a street rat and only your fleas will mourn you!” and “I love the smell of Napalm in the morning”.

Do you know the answers? I’ll send you a beer or a cookie*!

(*probably not)

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San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua

What’s better than a town with a one word name? A town with a four word name.

San Juan of the south (as it translates to in English) is a charming, if not gringo infested, surfing town in southern Nicaragua. It’s known for its horrible, overpriced hostel crawl drink-fest known as Sunday Funday, which we of course took part in.

It involves paying $30 for a ‘free’ tshirt and entry to several hostel bars where you pay obscene prices for drinks. I actually did have rather a lot of fun, until I reached that ‘oh god I’m so drunk I have to go home RIGHT NOW’ moment at about 6pm. To be fair the day started with pre-drinks at 11:30am. The mere mention of ‘Sunday’ still throws Andrew into a murderous rage re: the cost, surly bartenders, long queues and flawed drink token system.

Having written off our first day with Sunday Funday, we spent our second day lazing about town, going for dips in the weirdly freezing but not un-refreshing water and trying to avoid the wind. Oh yeah, you can’t surf at the town beach in San Juan Del Sur. This information doesn’t seem to exist on the internet, not that it bothers me. But if you are headed to SJDS to surf, just know that you will be getting expensive shuttles (read: riding in the back of a ute down a dusty road) to other beaches.

But back to the town beach:

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As wavy as it gets

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That day I spent about $15 on guacamole ingredients. SJDS is the most expensive place in Nicaragua. But what could I do? It was a guacmergency.

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Makes me want to lick the screen

Ingredients: 2.5 avocados, white onion, tomato, lime juice, salt and jalapenos. Apply to face.

That evening we took beers to the beach for sunset.

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Niki looking fabulous

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In the craziest ‘small world’ coincidence ever, we met a couple called Laura and Mark at our hostel whom I had previously been conversing with on the interwebs. I found their blog a week or so prior while trawling through WordPress, left a comment, then Laura and I chatted back and forth on this post and she very kindly sent me an email with a bunch of Scotland recommendations for later in the year. Then we bumped into them at our hostel! Mad.

Anyway, they came to the beach too. Along with their new friends Nicole and Eric.

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#bluesteel

The sunset that night was particularly good.

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Fairy floss skies

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The next day we ventured to a nearby surf beach so the others could partake in some hang-tenning. ‘The others’ being everyone but me. Here’s why: desperate to be Gidget as a teen, I took about 5 surf lessons over the course of my awkward adolescence only to get increasingly worse as time wore on. I eventually hung up my nonexistent surfboard (thankfully I never invested in the equipment, unlike that time I ‘learnt’ to play the trombone…) and conceded that not only was I bad at the sport, I downright hated it. And to quote Hannah Horvath in Girls season 3: “It’s really liberating to say ‘no’ to shit you hate”.

So that’s why I didn’t surf. But Andrew did:

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Bae Watch

He stood up on his first wave and then wiped out twice. The ocean giveth and the ocean taketh away, which is what I said at the time and what he later used to caption his facebook photo. No caption credit.

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Mark on a wave

I observed some rather spectacular (and some painful looking) wipeouts from the comfort and safety of the sand, and later at the bar.

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#wipeout

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inferior guacamole

All in all, a nice place to visit. We stayed at Mama Sara’s House which I 100% recommend, mostly because Mama Sara kept bringing us delicious food. It started with fruit and crescendoed with chicken tacos. When we thanked her she said “Mama has to feed her children” and when we asked to stay another night she said “you can stay the rest of the year”. Well, she said that in Spanish and her son translated for us, which didn’t hamper the sentiment.

Also the rooms were clean and I didn’t dry retch that hard when the fitted sheet sprung back from the mattress (which always seems to happen here?!). Something about seeing a naked mattress in a hostel, with or without stains, makes me want to be sick.

Be good.

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Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua

My boyfriend is a geologist and our travel buddy Niki is a geologist (they worked together), so part of Central America was always going to be about volcanoes. Volcanoes being the most exciting part of geology, apparently.

We kicked off our volcano tour with Isla de Ometepe, an island formed by two volcanoes rising from Lake Nicaragua. The two volcanoes are called Concepción and Maderas, they are joined by a small stretch of land called an isthmus.

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We took a ferry from the mainland at 5pm and were treated to spectacular views of Concepción in the fading light.

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Conception in the distance

We watched the sunset looking west back towards the mainland.

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Bye sun

We got a taxi from the ferry terminal to our hostel on the other side of the island, our journey only slightly delayed by a protest with deafening fireworks. We stayed at Hacienda Merida.

The next day we hired scooters and took off to explore the island.

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My life in Andrew’s hands

We passed all kinds of farm animals and some monkeys as well. Our first stop was Ojo de Agua, a manmade pool with natural spring water flowing through. It was like a green oasis hidden at the end of a dusty dirt road.

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We got there at about lunchtime, so it was packed. But still beautiful.

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In every direction was a slightly different shade of green/blue, depending on the light.

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Things got even prettier under the water.

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Was very happy to have replaced my GoPro by this point! All the underwater selfies.

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Happiest guy around

After splashing around for a bit (and being complimented on our childrens’ goggles) we dried off with some local beers.

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The easiest drinking beer around

Slightly soggy, we jumped back on our scooters in search of a late lunch. We came across a small town and pulled up to a food stand in the park.

I had a mix of plantain chips, slaw and a chunk of fried cheese (hidden by the slaw). It was delicious. I think it cost about $2?

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Andrew had a classic rice and bean combo.

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We ventured on (this time with me driving) further around the island, until we reached volcano vistas.

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Looks like it has a wig on

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In the late afternoon we moseyed on back to the hacienda.

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Oh hi

That evening we took in a particularly decent sunset from the dock at Hacienda Merida.

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After dinner we shared many rounds of Tona with new friends whilst avoiding two particularly evil ducks who kept sneaking up and nipping our hands and toes. I’m not kidding. Not even the dogs could scare them away.

An excellent start to Nicaragua.

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Honestly, I didn’t love Costa Rica

Costa Rica. Such an exotic name that evokes images of windswept palm trees, crystal clear blue water and the smell of coconut oil. I think a lot of Costa Rica’s mystique stems from its mention in popular culture as the ultimate paradise destination, but for me, it didn’t make the grade.

Costa Rica is expensive, frustratingly difficult to get around and so hideously over-developed in some areas you’ll think you’re in a particularly tacky part of Florida.

To get there we took an overnight bus from Panama City to the Panama/Costa Rica border, in what was our first experience with the lacklustre bus system in Central America.

We got to the station in Panama City nice and early with the thought that I could scan my travel insurance claim (for when I was mugged) at the print shop, but alas, the scanner was broken. Or so the grumpy man who clearly couldn’t be bothered doing his job told me. We then spent 45 minutes trying to get ‘fast’ food before our bus, which left us with not much time to find our platform. After being sent in the wrong direction by several people and running around the steamy bus terminal with all our belongings in some kind of deranged version of The Amazing Race, we found our bus with minutes to spare. But a surly woman wouldn’t allow us to board because apparently we needed metro passes, even though we would not be using the metro system… So off Andrew ran to buy a metro pass as Niki and I watched everyone else board the bus, the cargo doors slamming loudly shut. Andrew returned just in time so we ran through the barriers (Niki’s long awaited burger was seized on the way) and onto the bus to find our seats had been taken by a Panamanian family.

Long story short, we made it to the border having survived aircon induced sub zero temperatures on the bus (made no less frosty by the icy looks the Panamanian family kept shooting us from a few rows back after we reclaimed our spots) as well as cramped seats that wouldn’t recline.

But we were too early for immigration. So we sat here for an hour:

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Amazingly, still in good spirits

The border crossing was surprisingly straightforward and efficient, which I had not been expecting. We then took yet another bus to Puerto Viejo.

Puerto Viejo

Puerto Viejo was probably the highlight of Costa Rica. To be fair it was a pretty cool town with a very chilled out, reggae vibe. We stayed in a horrible hostel called Rocking J’s though, do not recommend. It crams in far too many people for the number of staff and bathrooms, and is completely filthy. It wins the coveted title of my Most Disgusting Hostel Kitchen Award.

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On our only full day in Puerto Viejo we hired bikes and made our way to a slightly more deserted beach out of town.

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Niki with our bikes

The coast was fine, nothing to write home (blog?) about.

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Meh

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The ride there was pretty nice though.

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On the way home we saw some pretty huge waves.

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We spent too little time in Puerto Viejo, but we had decided to move a bit faster through Central in order to spend a decent chunk of time in Mexico. The result of this being many hideous long bus days…

We bussed from PV to San Jose, got a taxi to a different bus terminal in San Jose and were fleeced $USD80, bussed from San Jose to Liberia, stayed one night (I do recommend Hotel Liberia! Very relaxing and great food), then finally bussed from Liberia to Tamarindo.

Tamarindo

Tamarindo is in northern Costa Rica on the Pacific Ocean side. It is 300% overdeveloped, is full of American sports bars and even a Canadian ‘Loose Moose’ bar. It’s expensive and there is nothing unique or authentic about the place. It’s also extremely dry and dusty.

The town beach is sort of brown and swimming there means copping a faceful of noxious boat fumes.

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To get to a decent beach you have to take an expensive shuttle. Or two slow local buses. Because most of the people in Tamarindo are American tourists or American expats everyone drives. So there are a million car hire places but no decent public transport.

We opted for an expensive return shuttle to Playa Conchal, which admittedly was beautiful. We walked a fair way down the beach to avoid the hoards but soon ended up with a family from Colorado practically sitting on top of us. The grandparents were lovely, the screaming kids not so much.

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Coconuts being a highlight of the day

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We enjoyed our day and then returned to the shuttle pick-up point, but our prepaid ride never came… So we took one local bus and then hitched a ride back to Tamarindo to fight with the obnoxious owners of Neptune’s for a refund. They told us to come back the following day after they had spoken to their driver. It was a pain but we got our refund.

We then had to backtrack to Liberia to get a bus to the Nicaraguan border. Once we crossed over, passing soldiers with AK-47s and police with riot gear and AK-47s, I honestly breathed a sigh of relief.

I can imagine Costa Rica would be nice if you are on a family vacation or are over 50, don’t mind spending way more than you should and are looking for a place that feels familiar. But for me, no bueno. We’ve since spoken with many other travellers who feel the same way. Have you been? Thoughts?

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Panama City sloth

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Our San Blas Islands trip finished just near Panama City and after a wild Jeep trip through the jungle that could have been mistaken for the Indiana Jones ride at Disney Land, we arrived at our hostel near Ancon hill. On the hill is a reserve so it’s not uncommon to see sloths in the area. Well.

On our last day we were walking down the street and our friend Courtney let out a squeal and yelled “SLOTH”. We looked where she was pointing and sure enough, there was the internet’s favourite meme animal lumbering slowly up a tree. We stood, craning our necks, watching the little guy for ages.

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So cute

And that, folks, was the highlight of Panama City.

We did go to see the canal but didn’t want to pay the $15 entrance fee as we could have only stayed there about 20 minutes (we had a bus to catch). So we watched a large ship moving through a lock through the fence until a security guard came and told us to rack off. And that was that.

Sloth!

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An honest review of the San Blas Islands boat trip

The San Blas Islands are a group of 378 islands off the coast of Panama in the Caribbean sea. The archipelago is relatively untouched by major tourism because the area is entirely controlled by the native Kuna people. You can tour through the archipelago on a sail boat, or on speed boats, like we did with San Blas Adventures (SBA). SBA offer a four day trip from Colombia to Panama or vice versa.

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Location of the San Blas islands. To the far right of the map you can see Cartagena, Colombia; where we left from for the tour.

I should say upfront that we were aware before embarking on our trip that it’s currently the windy season in the Caribbean. This means large swells, rough seas, choppy water and not much fun for 2-4 hours every day as you transit through the archipelago.

It can also mean weather like this:

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It was like this for the first 3 days of the trip. Grey skies do not equal paradise.

That said, I’m not convinced SBA should be running their tours through the windy season. I’m not sure I can emphasise enough how uncomfortable a ride in a small boat, in the rough open water is. Even before our trip began, a boat ride from Necocli to Capurgana to we could get to where the tour started was a complete eye opener. For the last hour of the trip we were hit by waves from all directions, banging hard over the swell. Screams were let out when we’d drop a particularly large amount and at one point a wave hit our side of the boat, throwing Niki and I from our seats onto the floor. I’ll show you the bruises later! This boat was bigger than the one we’d be taking for the actual tour.

The transiting we did during the tour was not quite as bad at the trip from Necocli to Capurgana. But it was still painful for my neck and back, scary as hell and had me worrying for the much older members of our group (in their 70s I’m guessing). I’m not comparing a tropical holiday with fleeing for one’s life, but I certainly have even more empathy for people seeking asylum on boats than I did before. There is absolutely no way you would choose to flee by sea if you had any other option.

So we were off to a somewhat shaky start with the rough seas, throw overcast weather and occasional rain into the mix and I was not a particularly happy camper to begin with.

But you know what helps? Coco locos. Or rum in coconuts:

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Cheers!

On the second day we saw a glimpse of blue sky!

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It was pretty much gone by the time we got to our island.

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Our hut for the night:

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That afternoon we went to a tiny nearby island whose owners had pet monkeys.

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It was amazing to hang out with them (spider monkeys). They were apparently rescued when their mother was hunted for meat. I’m not sure how I feel about the domestication of wild animals and the leashes on them, but it was amazing to observe them and how manlike they are.

The third day of our trip is when all the postcard perfect moments happened. Literally all the good stuff happened as soon as the sun came out and group morale lifted exponentially.

It also helped that we were on a tiny, sandy island owned by one Kuna family who were lovely. Have a look:

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That water

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Niki’s excited

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This lady is wearing traditional Kuna clothing. Part of the dress includes shakiras or beaded bracelets going all the way up the arms and legs. They look beautiful. It was awesome to see traditionally dressed Kuna ladies wandering around big malls and busy streets in Panama City.

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Selling shakiras and other handicrafts

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shakiras

Even more blue sky starting to emerge.

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Pretty happy duo

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The islands were littered with giant conch shells

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Yay

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A controversial new game called Catch the Conch. Those things are so heavy, they’ll have a tooth out.

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Niki doing a hand stand

For about an hour everyone in our group ran around, maniacally laughing, taking photos, prancing about and just celebrating finally getting good weather!

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The gang (thanks to Niki for these next few photos!)

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Andrew, Tyler and I

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Pulling an epic 80s Vogue pose

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Self appointed island crier

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The boat we travelled on

After that we calmed down and decided it was time to crack open the rum and a bunch of cigars Niki had managed to bring (and keep dry!) all the way from Cuba.

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We majorly over catered on the rum, but as I always say, it’s better to be safe than sober.

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‘You put the rum in the coconut and shake it all about…’

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We lazed about for a while and then our guide Angie and her volunteer set up a hilarious obstacle course for us to tackle in teams. It involved blind folding someone and guiding them by voice only, through a course without touching any of the obstacles put in place. If you found a beer in the course you had to chug it (wearing a snorkel mask!) to eliminate the other team. And we won! We won another bottle of rum. Yesss.

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Rum and coconut at sunset

That night we sat around the bonfire, singing songs and telling stories.

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The next morning we had a couple more hours to enjoy our island paradise.

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Some strange beach tax that wasn’t enforced

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Andrew and Niki

We then packed up all our stuff and headed here for lunch:

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This looks fake

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After lunch we headed back to land, on the way our driver pulled some stupid stunt move and swung us around at high speed, throwing us to the side and convincing many we were about to capsize. Apparently he did this because his mate was taking a photo?! This is despite knowing there were many nervous boat travellers onboard. Jerk.

As we got closer to land our boat’s motor died just kilometres off shore meaning we had to be towed back. Then we got into 4WDs for a harrowing ride through the jungle to Panama City.

San Blas Islands tour

Pros: our guide was amazing, the food was excellent, the last day when the sun came out was one of the best on our entire trip so far. The Kuna people were all lovely and welcoming, they are also fascinating and it was great to learn about their customs and traditions.

Cons: the weather, the rough seas, the feeling of dread every time we got back on the boat. On one of the trips we went super slow because some people in our group had requested it, whereas I’d rather get the trip over with and get to our destination rather than drag it out. Worrying about the 3 older couples on our tour who had obviously missed the memo about this being a ‘backpackers trip’.

Overall, definitely do the trip. But avoid the windy season at all costs!

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Colourful Cartagena, Colombia

Cartagena was a bonus prize tacked on to the end of our stay at The best located hostel in the world. We only had one full day there to explore and prepare for an impending boat trip, but we managed to explore the old town thoroughly. It was beautiful.

As we wandered the narrow streets I was reminded of New Orleans, Charleston and Paraty, Brazil. A pretty delightful mix!

We took a walking tour, but it was more about restaurant recommendations than giving us a history lesson unfortunately. Cartagena has a fairly typical history for the area; founded by the Spanish in the 1500s, was a major trading port for the gold and silver industries, survived attack attempts from the British and Americans and became independent in the 1800s.

Here are some snaps:

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Love these colourful houses.

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The old town is surrounded by an imposing city wall, kind of like Dubrovnik.

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Peering over the wall

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Bought a cup of mango from this lovely lady

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Playing chess

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The city walls

Our last stop for Colombia.

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The best located hostel in the world: Casa en al Agua

Some say life is about the journey and not the destination. Considering it took a taxi, a bus, a taxi and a boat to deliver us to Casa en al Agua I’d like to respectfully disagree with that statement. After a long day of travelling, including a hairy boat ride in which I was certain my worldly possessions would end up on the bottom of the ocean floor, we arrived here:

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Seriously

Try to tell me you’d rather be on a never ending merry-go-round of South American transportation and not here. I won’t believe you.

Casa en al Agua (meaning ‘house on the water’) is a solar powered hostel located in the San Bernardo Islands on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. It’s about a two hour direct boat ride to Cartagena, a much better route than our ridiculous boat/taxi/bus palaver.

But enough about how to get there. Here’s what you can do once you are there:

First of all, wave to the neighbours:

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Hello!

That’s the most interaction you’ll have with them during your stay.

Pick a bed:

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Heed your travel companions’ calls to partake in a pre-breakfast swim:

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Marvel at the crystal clear turqoise waters and thank your lucky stars:

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Wrestle with alligators:

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The inflatable kind

Bob on the top of the water like a cork:

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With fellow friend corks

Admire the more productive people setting about their days:

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After breakfast you can choose a leisure activity to suit your needs. Niki chose to get her water colours out on one of the decks:

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So clever

If you’re feeling up to it you can swim to a nearby island. I chose to paddle in the world’s tiniest canoe and watch these guys sweat it out:

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You’re almost there! Not really

I provided somewhat of a support vehicle along the way:

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Unfortunately the island didn’t offer much. But we were able to grab some bottles of water and admire the colourful walls.

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The good thing about archipelagos is that if one island disappoints, there is always another one close by.

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This way?

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Or that way?

You may find yourself on a deserted beach, watch out for sea urchins!

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Once all the adventuring is over you’re bound to have worked up a hunger. Snacks are a must.

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Expert chopping skills

Then it’s time to retreat to the deck for some cocktails and good company.

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Yes, I like Pina Coladas.

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I hate getting caught in the rain

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Nothing to do but sit back and watch the sun set.

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Then retreat to the lower deck for dinner.

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The next day I took the tiny canoe out again to photograph these pretty birds hanging out.

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It almost looked staged

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Then Andrew went for a paddle.

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While I snorkelled the nearby reefs.

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Then we sat here:

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For a very, very long time.

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Obsessed with conch shells

Pretty much all the meals from Casa en al Agua feature locally sourced fish. Delicious.

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Don’t you love it when your lunch stares back at you?!

After lunch I recommend staring some more at the amazing water.

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And finding new sea treasures to say hello to.

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Including the non dangerous urchins

Paddle some more.

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Make some more art:

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But above all else, relax. You made it.

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Colombia catch up: Taganga, Minca & Palomino

Taganga

Taganga is a small seaside village near Santa Marta in northern Colombia. If you worship at the altar of the Lonely Planet guide, chances are you won’t end up there. Their review of Taganga is laughably awful (do yourself a favour and read it here).

My personal review of Taganga is of course influenced heavily by the fact I was violently mugged there. Also we’ve just received news that our friend who is still there was mugged at gunpoint last night. So my advice to travellers would be not to bother with Taganga. There are far nicer, safer places.

But let’s look at some visuals anyway:

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It looks ok from the top of the hill.

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Not a bad sunset

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To quote Cher Horowitz from the classic movie Clueless, Taganga is a ‘full-on Monet’.

‘From far away, it’s OK, but up close, it’s a big old mess.’

PREACH Cher.

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Taganga: dusty and awful

Taganga is not far from a beautiful beach called Playa Cristal on the edge of the Tayrona National Park. Definitely worth the trip.

Playa Cristal

Speaking of the trip, we flew over huge waves in a tiny dinghy, bottoms banging unforgivingly on the fibreglass seats below us and landing with a thud. We were drenched.

But we ended up here:

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So blue

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So, so blue

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The snorkelling here is superior.

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Not the best photos

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Look! Niki found us!

We were joined in Taganga by Niki, a friend from Kalgoorlie. You’ll see her in lots of upcoming posts. Welcome Niki.

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These were the last photos I saved from my GoPro before it was stolen. *SOBS*

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Pretty awesome sunset back in Taganga that night:

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Taganga, you beautiful bastard.

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A few more Taganga photos:

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This was the street I was mugged on!

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Ok bye now

Minca

After Taganga we headed for the hills to a place called Minca. We didn’t book ahead and there was a big traffic jam so the cab let us out early and we had to wander around with all our luggage to find a place. We found a hostel with an adorable puppy out the front so immediately checked in. Turned out the place had no wifi, no running water and no air con. Oh well!

We cooled off here:

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Then the next day we got moto taxis up to here:

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After one night in Minca we headed back to Taganga for Australia Day and that’s when I was mugged.

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This was on Australia Day. We were joined by Michaela (remember we hung out with her in Chile and Argentina?!) and Greg. They all went scuba diving, I went snorkelling.

Moving on!

Palomino

From Taganga we headed along the coast to tiny Palomino. A cute little place with a beautiful river and mountains. And of course a lovely beach:

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With palm trees overhead:

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And delicious passion fruit juice to be had:

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And excellent company:

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We stayed at the Tiki Hut Hostel, it was pretty awesome:

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The next day we hired inflatable tubes and floated down the river for two hours until we got to the sea. To get to the river you have to take a moto taxi, and you have to ride like this:

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Except if you’re a man apparently?! The guys had to hold their tubes.

We took a bag of beers and floated leisurely down the river. I didn’t take a camera but I got this screen shot from Niki’s GoPro:

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Hi

This was a long post with lots of photos. In conclusion: don’t go to Taganga, go to Playa Cristal, go to Minca if you don’t mind mosquitos and definitely go to Palomino and float down the river!

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Magical Medellin

Friends! I promised a return to regular programming and then I disappeared to a remote Caribbean island with no wifi! Forgive me?

Unpredictably I have a little catching up to do. For this post we are going to have to cast our minds back, two to three weeks, to when we first landed in Colombia. In the city that, thanks to a certain famous drug lord, was once the most dangerous in the world. Medellin.

Medellin is NOTHING like it was in the two decades when the cartel was thriving. It is a charming place filled with art, delicious food and locals so happy to see visitors they actually approach tour groups to thank them. So sweet!

According to our walking tour guide (the walking tour is a must, by the way. There is only one, book ahead online) Medellin is super safe because it is a ‘house’ upon two pillars; democratic architecture (more on this later) and education, upon a platform of strong police presence and zero tolerance for trouble makers. Our guide explained everything in this manner and kept getting us to visualise things…

My favourite thing about Medellin was the abundance of Botero’s art. Botero is Colombia’s most famous artist and he likes to play with proportion. That’s the nice way of putting it.

Have a look:

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Fat cat

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Fat lady

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Fat man and woman

See what I mean? He makes people wonderfully chubby. No one is safe.

Plaza Botero is where many of his famous statues hang out, but they can be found all over the city. On one side of the plaza is Museo de Antioquia, where many famous Botero paintings hang.

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And some more sculptures.

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This is a particularly famous image:

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That’s Pablo Escobar dead on the roof.

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Arting

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Looking out onto Botero Plaza

On the other side of the plaza is a striking black and white building called the Palacio de la Cultura.

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It was designed by a Belgian architect.

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Another of my favourite things about Medellin was the abundance of fresh fruit carts, selling cups of mango and the like for $1 or less.

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The Provenza neighbourhood in Medellin reminded me a lot of Melbourne, with its cafes, restaurants and a delightful boutique brewery where we stopped for lunch. It was called Brew House.

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Drew and his brew

The place is run by a lovely American/Colombian family from New Jersey. They do great craft beers and delicious pizza. What more could you want?

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Apart from ice cream. Obviously.

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Another thing that helped transform Medellin was the introduction of a metro train system, which includes cable cars. The cable cars meant the underprivileged neighbourhoods and favelas in the hills could easily access jobs and life in the city. As a result the people of Medellin deeply love their metro.

We took a spin on one of the cable cars.

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So wistful

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The bottom of the cable car line links directly to the train line, so you just have to switch platforms to get on.

The metro system is celebrating 20 years of being in operation. People clearly still love and respect their efficient train system; you never see anyone graffiti-ing, littering or putting their feet on seats. It’s definitely one of the cleanest metro trains I’ve been on

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View from the bottom of the cable car, near the train platform

We checked out the botanical gardens too.

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Which for us means getting a plate of three meats at the cafe.

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Drool

We also walked around the gardens, I swear.

Out the front of the gardens was a well placed mini churro (donut) stand. The woman did all the work cooking and taking the money, the man sitting behind Andrew did the heckling. Classic.

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Mmm fried dough

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Delicious, hot sugary morsels

The walking tour took us to downtown Medellin. There our excellent guide pointed out examples of the democratic architecture I mentioned earlier.

This square used to be a dark, dangerous marketplace. When it burnt down the rubble was left for a while. Now it is called the square of lights thanks to the white poles that light up at magically at night. Everyone is welcome in this bright space. They also restored these two beautiful old buildings and one now houses an education centre.

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Arty photo of the white poles

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This church was surrounded by ladies of the night/day

We wandered back to Botero square.

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Botero’s son on a horse

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We were taken to another large square on our tour. In the 1990s someone placed a bomb in a backpack under the bird statue on the left. The explosion killed and injured many. They never found out who did it or why. Apparently Botero rang the mayor and told him not to remove the damaged bird statue. He said he would provide another one, but the old one had to remain so that people never forgot what happened and never repeated the same violent actions. Clever guy that Botero.

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The bomb damaged statue and the new one

Throughout the tour our guide referred to Pablo Escobar only as ‘the famous criminal’. This was so locals who don’t speak English didn’t hear his name being spoken without context to a big group of gringos. They don’t like Escobar. They don’t want to hear his name and think a tour guide is glorifying a man who killed so many to visitors.

During the tour people would come and stand with our group or approach our guide and ask him to tell us “Welcome to Medellin, thank you for coming”. For so many years people avoided Medellin and its horrible reputation, so locals are glad to see you.

There are definitely still drugs and cartels around. If you head to the touristy neighbourhood El Poblado you will be offered cocaine or marijuana by people selling chewing gum. But Medellin is a safe and fun place. You should go.

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